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MATCHING ANCIENT FOODS AND ANCIENT CERAMIC REPRODUCTIONS

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Meal inspired by ancient Greek recipes at Thetis Authentics. It was perfectly matched the specific technologically authentic reproductions of ancient ceramic artefacts made by Thetis.








Black glazed ceramic pyxis (=box) with lid. Leaves and a sprig of myrtle decorate the lid. (Attic Workshop, 4th c.BC.) Ancient Greek pyxis may have served as a container for small objects, such as jewelry and toiletrie.





Black glazed plates, red glazed plate and a black glazed skyphos (drinking cup). 



It was not proper serving etiquette at an ancient lunch to serve food in drinking cups and jewelry boxes but  is permissible at a modern one. Besides, the foods looked so pretty in them.



ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ

THE PROS AND CONS OF GREEK CRISIS

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Many things have been said about the Greek crisis in the last two years, most of them confusing. The  fact is that manyGreeks suffer tremendously by the economic turmoil, while the political elite remains untouched.

Ordinary people face deep cuts in wages, collapse of businesses, bunkruptcies, huge tax bills,  never- ending Kafkaesque bureaucracy, high cost of living, steadily increasing adult unemployment  (from 6·6%  in May, 2008 to 16·6% in May, 2011); huge leap of youth unemployment (from18·6% to 40·1% );  diminishing opportunities  particularly for young people;  absence of growth strategy; reduction of social security benefits.
Is it any wonder that  a growing number of graduates are leaving their home country in search of a better fortune elsewhere?
Of course, this causes a massive brain drain.
And...
is it any wonder why more and more families in large cities, especially from the middle and lower classes*, are facing extremely difficult times?
They are losing their jobs** and their homes- they are also losing the access to health care and preventive services. They are struggling to feed their children. The most desperate of them are seeking help from SOS Children...
And after that?
They are facing homelessness and they are forced to stay with family or friends. Many of them are sleeping in their cars, fearing that they are one step away from street homelessness.

"But these are no ordinary homeless people. With an average age of 47, 11% of Greece’s homeless have a university degree (!) and 23.5% hold a high school diploma, while only 9.3% are illiterate. The new Greek homeless class members have laptops and iPhones, remnants of their “old” lives. “They come to us in suits with their laptops in hand. These citizens a couple of months ago had ordinary lives. They had a job, a home and car,” says Nikitas Kanakis, the head of Doctors Without Borders in Athens. Counselors from the Department of Homeless Services describe a similar situation. “We even have homeless from suburbs like Kifisia and Voula! They come here with their laptops and expensive smart phones they once used for their work, shocked and depressed”.
These homeless are not drug addicts or immigrants or people who were always deprived. They are former teachers, doctors, economists, secretaries – the list goes on. Their homelessness is not a result of poor backgrounds or a lack of skills and education; but rather, a result of the “crisis” that continues to play out on front page news, and has destroyed their lives for no reason." (Emmanouela Seiradaki, Greece’s New Middle Class Homeless Hold a Degree and a… Laptop)

The worst thing about this situation is the lack of official policy planning for their return to work and to society.  Thus people who are in material misery, are at the mercy of the social services, the Church, the non profit organizations and the philanthropy of wealthier people.

And
economic recovery appears to be a long way off...

However,
as the ancient Greek word "krisis" implies, crisis has double meaning; it is not only a chaotic situation but also a crucial situation that demands judgment.
From this perspective, the present crisis  can be seen as an opportunity to see the past differently, correcting mistakes (many of them are related to the large, inefficient public sector and to the crisis of institutions) and  making new decisions with awareness.
Crisis can bring inventive solutions and  can force us make consious choises.

However,
to prevent the economic crisis from turning into a social catastrophe, a concerted effort is needed to rediscover those very Greek  values of philanthropy, compassion and philoxenia in order to compensate the weakest groups from its adverse effects.

Crisis can set people against one another, but it can also bring them together and give birth to new ways of looking at and interacting with the world.

Worth reading articles:
One small Greek island's relentless struggle to get by.

Hundreds of Athenians queue for free vegetables.

GREECE: A new wave of homeless made up of debt-stricken people - including families - is stretching current limited resources and forcing the government to search for ways to shelter the newly impoverished.

At Dinner with the Homeless in Athens, Greece.    

A group of community-minded gardeners have turned a former Athens airport into a blooming vegetable plot, showing how Greece's eroded soil holds the keys to a revival in farming and a way to buck the jobless trend.

Amid economic strife, Greeks go back to the land.

Made in Greece: revolutionizing the agricultural sector.

Potatoes & Snails instead of Big City Life.

The crisis is an opportunity for development, say the Greek big business.

“Boroume” or “We Can”, is a voluntary initiative that fights food waste and  coordinates the daily donation of surplus food to orphanages, soup kitchens, old age homes and other welfare institutions.

The Diaspora To The Rescue In Greece... Well, Almost.    

Whose crisis?

The Greek crisis

Solidarity with the Greek people ! I, too, am Greek.




*Most threatened are unemployed women - 40 percent, and families with one parent and at least one minor child - 33.4 percent.
**An average of 1,200 people is losing their jobs each week.



ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ.



BUY GREEK (?) PRODUCTS....

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A citizens’ group, called “We consume what we produce” and a “buy Greek products” movement seek to promote the consumption of Greek products increasing the awareness of consumers, who are considered as the most direct power to support Greek economy. This is not the first time that Greek nation is linked to products and economy. Lalakis the imported, an advertisement made in the mid-80s, emphasised the economic dangers of Greek xenomania (the excessive objection with all things foreign).*
However, two questions arise.
First, to what extent does Greece produce enough food to feed the population? Secondly, which Greek products are considered as Greek?

Not enough food -at least until now.
In terms of economy, the basis of Greece was agriculture until the pre-war period, although it was geared towards self-sufficiency rather than profit.
Greeks lived on small producing farms but had poor days because of wars, plant diseases, climatic variability and improper agricultural practises. Land unsuitable for cultivation was a major problem too. For example, Greece was never able to produce enough grain to support the population, so it imported it from other areas like the grain-rich Black Sea region. 
On the other hand, in the late 19th century, the newly constituted Greek statefaced huge economic crises related to the prevalent model of monoculture farming, overproduction and monoexport (e.g. raisins crisis of 1893 was due to the sudden fall in the international demand.)
Low levels of productivity due, mainly, to the very small size of farm holdings, under –investment in improvements, lack of programming, lack of farmers’ training and education, lack of cooperative consciousness (Greece adopted a system of farming cooperatives as early as 1915 though) and shrinkage of agricultural sector have been for years on of Greek agriculture’s standing characteristics. Moreover, "both the ‘farmer-friendly’ policies (by Greece and EU) and the state corporatism that predominated in the farming sector were chiefly income-oriented in character, placing emphasis on subsidizing the volume of production, and not enhancing the necessary structural adjustments."
So, it is not surprising that Greece is traditionally an importer of agricultural goods rather than an exporter.
However, the agricultural sector itself is very important to the country's economy because many Greek products are known for their very high quality, although until recently, Greece has never really promoted them as such.

Which Greek products are considered asGreek?



Trikalinos' grey mullet bottarga, an excellent Greek product 


"Buy Greek poducts":  Lately the phrase is in common use, but it is not always clear where products are manufactured, where raw materials come from or who pockets the profits.

Alfa Beta Vassilopoulos, the 2nd largest supermarket chain in Greece, which is owned by the Belgian Delhaize group, promotes a vast range of traditional Greek products, employs 11.000 people and pay taxes to the Greek state. Since 1991, Misko, the largest pasta brand in Greece, is owned by Barilla group. But Barilla uses Greek raw materials for Misko products and built the 3rd largest European pasta factory in Viotia.  The Greek branch of Friesland Campina also employs 470 Greeks and uses 15% of domestic milk production for dairy products and baby foods sold in Greece. Not to mention the international manufacturer Elais Unilever, which produces ‘Altis’ olive oil along with Becel and Vitam spreadable oils and fats, using Greek raw materials. Minerva, the leading exporting company of standardized Greek olive oil, is also owned by the multinational group PZ Cussons.
Coca-Cola HBC Greece, a franchised bottler of Coca Cola company, employs 2000 people and also provides consumers with a variety of its own brands and products. Athenian Brewery, a member of the Heineken group, employs 2000 Greek workers and purchases local barley for its products from Greek farmers.  Evga ice cream brands have traditional been favored by Greeks because of the firm’s Greek identity and taste. But Evga’s brands and distribution network has been acquired by Unilever.
These are only some of foreign-owned companies in Greece employing Greeks (their businesses also translate a lot of work for advertising agencies, printing businesses, magazines, tv media etc)

And what about the wholly or partially Greek owned companies that operate in and outside of Greece using imported raw materials (and employing foreign workers in case they operate outside of Greece)? For example, Greece is the largest EU importer of high quality sesame seeds. A large scale of sesame is mostly used for the production of traditional food products, such as tahini, halva, and pasteli. It also imports fresh meat for traditionally cured meat products. Many Greek companies import goods from countries that pay low wages in order to make their products more affordable.

I mean that the benefits of supporting Greek products are immense in terms of sustainability, environmental protection, social ethics and economy. However, since we consume more than we produce we cannot live only on Greek products. And since for over 30 years we live in a world in which a few multinationals firms dominate the food markets, we can not always  be sure where products are manufactured, where the raw materials come from or who profits.
But, of course, we can place a great emphasis on high quality products "made in Greece" or  "produced in Greece".

Despite the weaknesses (low levels of productivity, frequently changing legislation, low standardization ability in fruits, vegetables and olive oil, lack of promotion in markets outside Greece), the food and drink sector is one of the most important in Greece with high potential of further growth. Greece produces high quality olives, bottled water, bottled olive oil, honey, yogurt, cheese etc. Its climate is ideal for a plethora of fruits, vegetables and herbs. Wine is an export with promise. Thus the direction of agricultural sector and food and drink industries should be toward both the growth of production of high quality products and more exports. The European preference for traditional products, the tendency to "Mediterranean" diet and the growth of tourism offer great opportunities to Greece for strong sales. An aggressive promotion can help provide much-needed support.


*A certain degree of the love of everything foreign can be attributed to the end of long-term political instability and poverty as well as to tourism. The xenomania was also enhanced by mass media and by Greek students and professionals living abroad.

Worth reading:
Charlafti Gelina: Greek commerce and shipping at the north coast of the Black Sea.
Vassilis Patronis: Between state and market forces: Greek agricultural cooperative organizations in transition period.


ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ

GREAT GREEK PRODUCTS, WORTH THE EFFORT TO FIND

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The following list includes only a small part of high quality Greek products exported, so it will be enriched from time to time.


Irini Olive Oil has been awarded several times in the last years, including the Mario Solinas award in Spain. It is exported in Denmark and Sweden.






Sitia Olive Oil  has also been recognized internationally and has been awarded several times. Considerable amounts of BIO SITIA (biological extra virgin olive oil), SITIA 0, 3 (extra virgin olive oil) και SITIA 0, 7 (extra virgin olive oil  are exported to Germany, Canada, Australia and Russia.





Gaea- Kritsa Extra Virgin Olive Oil, is produced at Kritsa- one of Crete’s oldest olive groves. This unique extra virgin olive oil has won a lot of Greek and international awards. You can find it here.





Kalamata olives.






If you live in Belgium, France or Holland don't miss the dairy products of Pappas Bros. Although they produce various cheese types like gruyere, kefalotyri etc., they are known for their unique cheese type named "Ziros". It is a hard cheese with intense flavor made with spring sheep milk.


Balsamon mustard: aged balsamic vinegar, honey, extra virgin olive oil and herbs add a smooth and very pleasant taste to this internationally awarded mustard.




Ef zyn Paste of sun dried tomatoes from Tinos island in cold pressed extra virgin olive oil and Ef zyn tomato sauce with vegetables and fruits.




Trikalinos grey mullet bottarga, traditionally prepared and packed in beeswax.  A superb product  of astonishing flavour. You can find it here






Chios mastic and mastic products by Chios mastiha growers association. Dozens of various mastiha products can be found in Mastihashops (New York, Paris, Jeddah) arranged into 6 different categories: natural mastiha, foodstuffs, organic, traditional products, beverages, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and folk items.








Kozani crocus- Red Greek saffron: The dried red- gold strands of the purple crocus flowers are exported all over the world under the name “Krokos Kozanis.


krokos_kozanis_sineterismos_logo





Honey

Sea salt



Aged assyrtiko vinegar: A unique sweet vinegar brings together the traditional French recipe from Orleans and Italy’s Aceto Balsamico.






Greek wines. During last years Greek wines have been tremendously improved. More about them, here and here and here



Sparrows rooted in soil

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Αre sparrows  found rootedin soil?

Greek word "strouthion" means literally "little sparrow", which doesn't not seem an unlikely name for the delicate Bladder Campion  as its flowers resemble small chubby sparrows moving here and there.
In Greece it is known under severalnames including strouthoula, strouthoni (sparrow related names), fouskoudi (LemnosandMani), koukaki (Zakynthos), stroufouliagriopapoulo and ktypalo (Crete). As for its botanicalname, it derives fromSileni, the drunken companions of Dionysus or from ancient Greek "sielon" (saliva) because of the gummy exudation of the stems.





The leaves and young stems of strouthion are traditionally eaten in omelettes or with scrambled eggs (Crete, Cyprus, Mani); they are also used in small pies filling (Cyprus) and in Lenten green pies. Cretans brown  them in olive oil or they cook them with meat or  salt cod.  
 
 
I myself like to mix them with  spinach, wild sorrel, spring onions, a few sprigs of wild fennel and cook them with fresh cuttlefish.
 

Clean the cuttlefish, cut it into pieces and brown  it with olive oil and chopped onion. Then  add water and demi -sweet red wine to cover,  and continue cooking. When it is almost ready, add the greens, cleaned and cut into large pieces. Cook until everything is tender. If necessary, add water and taste to see if it needs salt.
Another delicious with cuttlefish is to stuff it with the mixture of the greens. Of course, chop the greens by cutting them in very small pieces
 and add pine nuts or some other unsalted nut.

 I am not going to give precise instructions and proportions here, just  trust your taste.



Gennadios P., Phytologicon lexicon pp. 872;  Stavridakis Cl, Wild edible plants of Crete  pp. 121.
Many thanks to Angelina of twominutesangiefor the mention of "spourgitaki" (sparrow)I also thank KyriakiPantelis, social geographer with special interestin HistoricalGeographyofFood; shetold me that "sparrow" is  Silene voulgaris since in Cyprus it is called strouthouthki (small sparrow) or tsakridki.



ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ

Traditional foods of Greece: hyacinth bulbs.

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Yes, I am a bulb eater.
And yes, wild blue hyacinth is my favorite bulb.
Not feeling the enthousiasm?


File:Wild Hyacinth (Hyacinthoides non-scriptus) - geograph.org.uk - 801268.jpg

The bitter taste of  bulbs (muscari comosum, Gr. volvoi) is much appreciated in Greece ever since classical times. They also had a good reputation as an aphrodisiac amongst ancient Greeks and Byzantines.





If you come across them in the farmer's market, please buy them! It is really worth it to try them out. Clean them and if they are big cut a cross in the root base of each of them. Leave them for 2 seconds- 2 minutes in boiling water (the boiling time depends on their size). Then put them in a large bowl of water. Change the water every 3 hours for one day and one night.   Drain the bulbs in a colander,  put them in a jar, add some peppercorns and cover with good quality wine vinegar.
Serve them with virgin olive oil and garnish with chopped spring onions and dill or with chopped fresh garlic and mint. Their mildly bitter taste makes a truly wonderful combination with those flavorings.

In Crete, where you find a plethora of dishes based on foraged wild plants and roots, volvoi are cooked together with lamb, pork, snails octopus or cuttlefish.



But of all bulb recipes I have ever made, there is one really favourite that was worth my effort to set up its proportions. Philemon, the comic poet, suggests this preparation of bulbs in Deipnosophistae of Athenaeus: "Look, if you please, at the bulb, and see what lavish expense it requires to have its reputation — cheese, honey, sesame-seed, oil, onion, vinegar, silphium. Taken by itself alone it is poor and bitter." Homemade goat cheese, thyme honey and a pinch of asafoetida powder, virgin olive oil, homemade wine vinegar, onion, sesame seeds and slightly bitter bulbs make something truly memorable.



ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ

''...the only food they had was the spring swallows''

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The Third Siege of Messolonghi was fought in the Greek War of Independence, between the Ottoman Empire and the Greeks, for almost a year. The people of Messolonghi attempted a mass breakout on the night of April 10, 1826. The no-surrender decision of those too weak to participate in the Exodus culminated in the blowing up of the gunpowder magazine and their self-immolation.





The sortie of Messolonghi by Theodore Vryzakis


Hunger is closely connected with the siege of cities. Therefore, it is no coincidence that one of the most dramatic famines in the modern history of Greece occurred during the siege of Messolonghi in 1826. 2 ½ months before the exodus, the hunger forced Messolonghites to consume unfamiliar foods: "While we searched the houses we found sufficient quantities of flour. We distributed it using a cup. A cup of beans was distributed to the needy as well.

They started tomix this small amount of beans in a pot with flour; they added some crabs too.... A doctor cooked his dog with olive oil, whichwe had in abundance, and he was full of praise for this food. The soldiers seized any dog or cat found in the street [ ... .] Around the March 15, we started (consuming) pikralethres, a bitter weed of the sea; we boiled it five times until the bitterness was gone, and ate it with vinegar and olive oil, like a salad, and (also) mixed with crab broth. [ ... ] they also ate rats and whoever could catch even a single onewas happy. Unfortunately, there were no frogs. From the lack of food diseases, arthritis and mouth ache, became commonplace. This was the situation when we got a letter from our envoys in Nafplion proposing us to eat (if it was needed) each other. " (1)

After they ate all the quadrupeds, birds, and greens – both the edible and dirty ones- Messolonghites started to eat strictly forbidden foods, such as human flesh or more precisely corpses, although -before the starvation’s climb to extreme levels- a proposal on eating the dead enemies had been rejected with horror. But "as the days passed by, the lack of food became desperate; the description given by Lefkadios Stefanitsis (the fortunate doctor of the Guards who managed to survive the famine and exodus from Messolonghi) is really horrific: soon after the battle of Kleisova, predicting more severe food shortage, Stefanitsis suggested that the corpses of the Egyptians should be salted and given as food to the residents. But this was rejected and the only food they had was the spring swallows."(2)

But,
during times of desperate need for food, human being does the unthinkable and unmoral to survive. N. Kasomoulis, Art . Michos and N. Makris mention the following incidents of necrophagy in their memoirs. "...many families started to eat their relatives who were killed by the famine", Mihos writes, "and (Vayias) found a piece of a thigh and other remains of a child hidden in the home of a family from Zygo or Apokouro; shuddering with horror, he had been informed by the lady of the house that the kid had died of hunger but was used to feed the survivors. Unfortunately, this was true, since no other food was found in the house" ( 3) Kasomoulis says that "a man from Kravara cut some flesh from the thigh of a killed defender, and ate it.”

The abolition of dietary codes and taboos because of hunger is associated with a softened feeling of disgust and of moral inhibitions. Cooking process helps starving people to transform prohibited foods into something delicious or just tolerable. General N. Makris mentions in his memoirs that"Many Messolonghites found themselves in need for food, thus they removed the liver from the killed healthy people, fried it in olive oil and poured some vinegar on it; This food was considered tasty by those who ignored its origin, and tolerable by those who were aware of it. (4)

It is true that the stories related to the ultimate taboo are not really detailed, however, they say a lot about the Messolonghi tragedy. The last meeting of the defense leaders offers one of the most dramatic stories that came out of the city: “after having one hour conversation, they agreed that in order to save most of us, should eliminate those factors- like cowardice or love for life- that might encourage a betrayal. It was decided to kill all captives, Turks and Christians, who worked in the public sector, simultaneously, and if someone knew a Turk or Christian suspect, he should kill him as well. Tziavelas immediately ordered to kill his beloved and faithful Arab Turk, and everyone did the same.Immediatelythey killed and slaughtered all the Cossacks, up to 30 people, and craftsmen, who worked for the enemy (diggers) and were captured (by us) as well as all Turks. Our hearts became so hardened that we didn’t know (what we have done). My brother Metros (Kasomoulis) recovering from illness and being informed about it, he ran and slaughtered twelve people on the beach. He came covered in blood from head to toe, happy. He startled my soul; I scolded him for trying, like a pelican, to kill so many people.
-Eh, he said, don’t bother me now; I could slaughter 500 people, and many more. What is left to us besides drinking blood, for we have nothing to eat? "(5)

Necrophagy is a historical fact mentioned in Greek history. Of course, not a single word is to be found about it in the Greek schoolbooks. It is hushed up, just like a detail that doesn’t contribute to the ethnocentric concept of the nation. At the same time, famine was considered the main cause for the fall of Messolonghi. Not a single word about the lack of unity or about the Peloponnesian leaders who didn't trouble themselves to help Messolonghi (6); not a single word about the wasted English loan of 1.000.000 talira while "100.000 talira could save this stronghold."

1 Ν. Κasomoulis, ''Enthymimata stratiotika tis Epanastaseos ton Ellinon, ed. G. Vlahogiannis, Athens, 1939, vol. Β΄, p. 256.

2 Michopoulos Ph. Oi teleftaies imeres tou Messolonghiou, Αthens 1957, p. 22.

3 Michos Art., “Αpomnimonevmata”, Apomnimonevmata agoniston tou 21, ed. G. Tsoukalas, vol.2, Athens 1956, p. 48.

4 Makris N., Apomnimonevmata agoniston tou 21, ibid, vol. 19, p. 64

5 Ν. Kasomoulis, ''Enthymimata stratiotika..'', ibid, p .252.

6 ''What if Messolongi is falling? Is the whole Greece Messolonghi?'' Spyromylios, Chronico Messolonghiou 1825-6.


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Snails, Artichoke, Carrot and Fresh Pea Stew.

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Delicate hearts hidden behind thorny leaves (the Cretan spiny artichokes) ~ fresh tender peas ~ sweet carrots ~ scallions and fresh garlic ~ wild fennel:
a telltale sign that spring has arrived.
Pair with snails and you'll have a great dish.
Hard to believe that this ode on spring's most delicious vegetables and flavors is a lenten dish.

But,

don't bother yourself if you have the frozen or canned version of the main ingredients.


Clean four artichokes halve and rub them with lemon juice to prevent browning.
Blend half a head of fresh garlic (minced)
with one onion (chopped)
and four scallions (chopped);
sauté them in a little bit of olive oil until they are the color of gold.
Add one red, juicy tomato (chopped).
And sixty cleaned snails.
Pour in about two cups of water and 1/3 cup of olive oil.
Season with salt and pepper
and bring to a boil.
Then reduce the heat and after ten minutes add  two cups fresh peas followed by one large carrot cut in pieces. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the artichokes and two tablespoons wild fennel and cook until all vegetables and snails are tender.


Artichokes cooked with broad beans
Artichoke pie

Easter ovens

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Though the spit roasted lamb and kokoretsi  are considered the traditional Greek Easter foods, in fact they belong to the tradition of central Greece.
In islands people put their easter roasts and meat pies in ovens. 
In Cretan villages the use of ovens is essential year round; hence almost all houses have ovens. It is not a big surprise then that the Easter lamb or goat is cooked in the oven. In other islands (e.g. Kalymnos, Santorini) it was only the rich  who had an oven in their backyard. But in many Aegean islands the tree vegetation is sparse, therefore the fuel shortage forced the people  to share the use of an oven. On the other hand, in Crete there is an abundance of olive wood.
The lack of fuel also affected the cooking methods. People adopted heat efficient cooking methods; for example, in Siphnos, mastello, a specially made earthenware pot is filled with lamb, dill and red wine. Sometimes its’ lid is sealed with dough.






On Easter Saturday Kalymnian mouri -whole lamb stuffed with a mixture of rice, ground meat, chopped lamb liver, tomato, chopped onion, pine nuts and cinnamon powder- is baked in a sealed clay pot. The door of the village outdoor oven is also sealed with cement or clay. The meat will be slowly cooked until the Easter day ( how symbolic the lamb in the tomb-liked oven, opened up after the second Ressurection is announced). Today, many Kalymnians use olive oil metal cans instead of clay pots, though it is widely believed that the meat doesn't taste exactly the same.  






Stuffing the mouri


In cities,  people bring the lamb or goat to bakery shops to be cooked in the baker's oven; however an increasing number of people is building their own outdoor ovens--they are considered a "must" for new house constructions.



Pig's tongue for the 1st of May

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Spring by Yiannis Tsarouhis (detail)

1st of May,
beware of the snakes, bad spirits and dead returning to the earth.

So, you didn't forget to put a garlic in the May day flower wreath, eh?

And you didn't forget to add an olive tree branch for the family's love, a thorny branch for the enemies and wheat for fertility, did you?

And you ate the salted or smoked tongue of the  Christmas pig! Otherwise you will be unprotected against May spells and glossofagia, the bad luck that results of  words and envy.

Oh the magic month of May!



Pig's tongue stew (Choirini glossa stifadho)


1 pig's tongue, well washed and blanched in boiling water
1 kilo whole peeled walnut -sized onions
1 medium whole peeled red onion
5 cloves chopped garlic
1cinnamon stick
4 cloves
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoonstomato paste
1 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup sweet red wine
freshly ground black pepper
sea salt
1/4 cupolive oil

Scrape the skin and cut the tongue in small pieces.
Stick the cloves into the red onion.
Using a large pot, saute the baby onions in olive oil, until they begin to brown. Add the garlic and saute for one minute.
Add the tongue, the onion, all seasonings, as well as the tomato paste, the wine and enough water to cover everything. Bring to the boil and then simmer until the tongue is tender and the sauce is thick. 
Freshly baked bread is perfect to scoop up the delicious sauce.



Mαγιοβότανα (Magic Herbs or Herbs of May) - a cycle of eight songs by MANOLIS KALOMIRIS on a set of poems by KOSTIS PALAMAS from a live concert in Tokyo, Japan, on April 30, 1987, with mezzo-soprano DAPHNE EVANGELATOS and the YOMIURI NIPPON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA conducted by YOSHIKAZU TANAKA

Till the first decades of the 20th century, the magiovotano (May herb) or sarantavotano (40 herbs) was the basic protective elixir of May Day.  It contained 40 types of herbs, greens, nuts, milk and honey.






Surprise spice wine and period dishes

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The recreation of period dishes is a love story with history, adventure, test cooking and playfulness. 
And every time I cook, I always seem to find myself asking the same question: "How did it taste? Can we ever know what an ancient dish tasted like?"
Some of the difficulties  are obvious; there are no precise measurements and times. Moreover, if a recipe calls for 4 eggs you will probably use 3 thanks to modern chickens that lay big eggs. The modern milk is homogenized, pasteurized, and has less fat than ancient milk, so you may need to use a mixture of milk and cream.
The truth is that while forming the recipes, I experiment with all the possibilities.
The following section presents a dinner based on recipes that appeared during Rome's Imperial period.


The table of the ancient Roman aristocracy allowed to express one's wildest imagination. That's not a big surprise since the Empire, at its zenith, stretched from Western Europe to the Near East and from Northen Europe to Northen Africa (famed for its agriculture).  Moreover Romans adopted Greek fashions, spending lavishly on imported foods and wines.
Of course, not all inhabitants of Rome ate stuffed dormice and peacocks' tongues.  The common people lived in crowded conditions and had to sustain on grains, vegetables and fruits. The state provided them bread and free entertainment; panem et circensus~ bread and circuses.  So, they didn't revolt.


FIRST COURSE


The cooking of Imperial Rome can be defined as the art of perfecting a dish by adjusting bitter, sweet, sour and salty tastes.
Cucumbers and watermelon, sprinkled withfreshly groundblackpepper,pennyroyal powder, liquamen, wine vinegar andpassum.*

Zucchiniseasonedwith pepper, cumin, a pinch of asafoetida,** rue (Ruta graveolens), liquamen,wine vinegar and alittledefritum (for color).*

Moretum


MAIN COURSE

Always in use in the Roman kitchen were olive oil, garum or liquamen and wine. Salt was used mainly in preserving. Since sugar was unknown, honey and a concentrate of grape must were commonly used as sweetener, as were dates produced by Syria and Egypt.
In the Apicius cookbook, the flavor of dishes is often enhanced with 5-15 spices and herbs.


Aliter Isicia omentata: I mixed ground meat with bread soakedinwine.The mixture was flavored withpepper and liquamen and  after I had added pine nuts and pepper, I shaped it into something like keftes or small kebabs. Then, I wraped them in caul (omentum — caul) and boiled them in caroenum.*

Porcellum oenococtum: Sucling pig cooked in wine.  SCALD [parboil] THE PIG [and] MARINATE [2] PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN [with] OIL, BROTH, WINE AND WATER, TIE A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; [cook (in the oven)] WHEN HALF DONE COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT AND CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD THE PIG’S OWN GRAVY AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. ADD THIS [to the meat in the sauce pan] AND[197]LET IT BOIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. THE PIG, PLACED ON A PLATTER, MASK [with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. (no 377) 





MORETUM



 A poem attributed to Virgil describes the simple lunch of a farmer.
“First, lightly digging into the ground with his fingers, he pulls up four heads of garlic with their thick leaves; then he picks slim celery-tops and sturdy rue and the thin stems of trembling coriander. With these collected he sits before the fire and sends the slave-girl for a mortar. He splashes a grass-grown bulb with water, and puts it to the hollow mortar. He seasons with grains of salt, and, after the salt, hard cheese is added; then he mixes in the herbs. With the pestle, his right hand works at the fiery garlic, then he crushes all alike in a mixture. His hand circles. Gradually the ingredients lose their individuality; out of the many colors emerges one (color est e pluribus unus) – neither wholly green (for the white tempers it), nor shining white (since tinged by so many herbs). The work goes on: not jerkily, as before, but more heavily the pestle makes its slow circuits. So he sprinkles in some drops of Athena’s olive oil, adds a little sharp vinegar, and again works his mixture together. Then at length he runs two fingers round the mortar, gathering the whole mixture into a ball, so as to produce the form and name of a finished moretum. Meanwhile busy Scybale has baked a loaf. This he takes, after wiping his hands…” (Moretum 88-120, translation by Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger, The Classical Cookbook).

Follow Virgil's method for this salad using the ingredients listed.
2 medium heads of fresh garlic
2 tb celery tops
1/2 small bunch of coriander leaves, finely minced
2-3 dried rue leaves
400 gr feta cheese or romano cheese, hand grated (the poem calls for a hard cheese but moretum is also tasty when made using feta cheese)
2 tb virgin olive oil
3 tb wine vinegar




CONDITUM PARADOXUM (Surprise spice wine)


Honey infused wines generally were served as aperitifs. The recipe is one of the very few in Apicius that include precise quantities.

"The composition of this extraordinary spiced wine is as follows: Place 5.4l of honey in a bronze vessel, having previously added 1.8l of wine. In this way, the wine shall be boiled off in the melting honey. The mixture is heated by a slow fire of dry wood and stirred, to boiling, with a wooden rod (if it begins to boil over add more cold wine to it). Take off the heat and allow to cool and settle. When it is cold, light another fire underneath. This second fire is followed by a third and only then can the mixture be moved away from the hearth. On the following day, skim the surface. Then add 120g of crushed pepper, 4g of mastic, a handful each of saffron leaves and spikenard and five  roasted date stones: these previously having been crushed and soaked in wine to soften them. When all this has been done, add 16l of  light wine into the vessel. Hot coals are added [to the finished product]."(http://www.celtnet.org.uk/recipes/roman/fetch-recipe.php?rid=roman-conditum-paradoxum)

I used
3/4 bottle of red wine
3/4 cup of honey
1/2 tsp ground pepper
1 small bay leaf
1/4 tsp mastic powder
1 pinch saffron
(I didn't use dates)
1/4 bottle Vinsanto wine (Domain Sigalas)

*Passum, defritum, caroenum
**Asafoetida was imported from central Asia as a substitute for Libyan silphium, which had been harvested to extinction.


ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ

Ovens

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And from a peculiar way of  baking or roasting it, there is a loaf called ipnites (or the
oven loaf) which Timocles mentions in his Sham Robbers, where he says —
And seeing there a tray before me full
of smoking oven-loaves, I took and ate them. (THE DEIPNOSOPHISTS. [b. III. , 74])



In the past, wood oven (or fourno in Greek) was an essential tool in homemade bread baking, in preparing rusks and drying fruit and nuts. 
Cyclades islands faced acute fuel shortage, thus the oven was traditionally heated with dried brushwood meticulously picked from the countryside. Sheep manure was also used as fuel.  On the other hand, the ovens in Crete and Pelloponese are heated with olive wood since olive cultivation is widespread across these regions. Ovens in central Greece are heated with oak wood and wood of the beech tree.




Traditionally, food demanding the higher temperature, such as bread, was baked after the ashes and embers are pushed aside or swept out of the oven. The remaining heat was not wasted: food baked in lesser temperatures followed, and after that it could be used for preparing rusks and drying fruit and nuts.


Today wood ovens do a lot of meat roasting and less bread making.



Attica, ca 1947 (Photo by Evans/Three Lions/Getty Images)

Bread still means everything in Greece though.




Large ovens are more fuel-efficient. For this reason many old agricultural houses have really large constructions. They were used for baking large quantities of bread and barley rusks few times a year or for cooking for large groups of people.

Alarge Cretan oven (base diam.: 2,10 m.) The entrance is in the kitchen; it is above a double fire – place which was used as a source of heat, for roasting or for cooking for special occasions. 





A second, smaller oven was occasionally built for regular use.




 Karpathos (Greece On April 01, 1980 by Francois Le Diascorn- Getty Images)

Outdoor ovens are usually placed in the yard of the house, oriented to take advantage of prevailing winds for better dissipation of smoke.







If people didn't have an oven they used to take the dough to large, community owned ovens, specially built for baking bread and rusks. The public ovens were also a place for women to socialize and share stories and news.
 Today, in most parts of Greece, the old communal bread ovens are gone. At the same time, restaurants begun to offer many dishes cooked on the hearth of a brick oven.


Theophilos, 1933

 However, Greeks keep up another  old tradition; they pay a few euros to a professional  baker to put pies, meat and other dishes in his oven.

Bakehouse, Volos



A crunchy wonderful crust is one of the foremost features of wood-oven baked loaves.

Olive-cheese-tomato bread

Women used a piece of bread dough to check the oven temperature. Sometimes they let the dough be plain and prepared a quick, tasty bread for children.

for the starter:
1 cup (120 g) of wholewheat flour
 1 cup (240 ml) of water

for the bread
1 1/2 cup bread flour
1 1/2 cup wholewheat flour
1/2 cup of prepared starter
 1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted, drained, roughly chopped
1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1/2 cup chopped tomatoes, without skin
up to 1 cup of warm water
1/2 tsp thyme
1/3 tsp salt
Stir the starter mixture using a wooden spoon. Cover it with a hand towel and place it  in a dark, warm place to promote the fermentation process.
Mix flour, starter, tomato, salt and 3/4 of water together in a large bowl.  Knead for about 4-5 minutes. The dough will look very dry, so add more water and knead again.  If the dough is too wet, add a tablespoon or two of flour, if it is dry add more water. In any case, knead for another minute or two, until the dough barely sticks on your fingers.
Spray the inside of a  bowl with olive oil, place the dough into the bowl and cover it with a a piece of plastic wrap and a towel.
Let it rise all night.
Next morning, sprinkle the dough with some flour, knead it gently for 3-4 minutes and flatten it using your hands. Add the olives and the feta cheese, sprinkle with thyme and knead the dough into a small round circle.
Spray the inside of a baking dish with olive oil, then sprinkle some flour and place the dough on it. Let it rise for 1 hour and bake it until golden brown (preheated oven, 180C).


Fig spoon sweet with a twist

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I am not a person who likes sweets but I am fond of fig spoon sweet which is made with immature male figs....







.... those that contain wasps and pollen and are not eaten raw.





Sometimes I serve sweet figs stuffed with a drop of strained yogurt and chopped roasted almonds.


Words are not enough to describe the taste.




Click here for a recipe for fig spoon sweet.



ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ, ΕΔΩ

Food for the dead (2)

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Τ? Αρουσαλιού


An ancient Roman festival known as dies rosationis or rosalia in May or June, when family members brought roses to the graves of their beloved is the reason for the Greek feast of Rosaliou. On the 2nd of June  people decorate the graves with flowers and take to the church kollyva, pies (psychopites: soul pies), lamb and other foods which are blessed by the priest after which they are distributed amongst those present. Thus the dead eat and the souls rest in peace.
In some parts of Greece "The whole village [...] makes its way to the tombs. It is the last day of freedom for the souls, which have been freed since the Sunday before Lent by the blood of hens slaughtered over their graves. [...] The central part of this ritual is the gonatisma (kneeling) which takes place after the first part of the service has been sung inside the church. Everyone, young and old, walks in procession to the churchyard (perivolos) led by the women, who carry baskets of offerings covered with fine scarves, usually white.
The women stay at the tombs to guard the offerings, kneeling with heads bent towards the earth, while the priest takes the men back to the church to continue the service also kneeling.
During this silent kneeling the souls are believed to rise to eat and drink. Afterwards the men come out of the church ans sit round the tombs in a large circle while the women hand round food and drink.
The separation of men and women during the vital moments of this ritual illustrates the importance of woman in matters so intimately concerned with the dead.'' (The Ritual Lament in Greek Tradition, Margaret Alexiou, Dimitrios Yatromanolakis, Panagiotis Roilos)


Food for the dead (1)


Best breakfast I have ever had

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By the time of the classical period  the early breakfast was called akratisma and, as the name implies, consisted of a piece of bread dipped in unmixed wine (akratos). Sometimes, figs, olives and cheese complemented bread and wine.
The first meal of the day was called ariston and was eaten around noon. Byzantines called it also "lunch". In one of his poems the 12th century so-called Ptochoprodromos complained that cobbler consumed tripe and Vlachian cheese for breakfast. Βut there is a considerable amount of exaggeration concerning eating in the poetry of Ptochoprodromos.
What did the modern Greeks eat for breakfast?
Until a few decades ago, they ate cheese and bread or rusk with herbal tea or -more expensive- coffee. A cup of coffee and a cookie or a piece of cake was not uncommon for people who lived in the cities. Farmers used to eat papara, herbal tea with rusk, cheese and olives, trahana soup, fruits and cheese. During winter they drank warm wine with pepper and/or cinnamon.
Of course,  they got hungry around 11am... it was time for more cheese and bread or a piece of bread dipped in olive oil, a piece of pie or even a small portion of cooked food.
Nowdays, breakfast is not a meal which is paid a great attention. Often it is eaten on the run and many people rush of to work just drinking a cup of coffee.
Now do you understand why I enjoy the Turkish breakfast so much?
Lots of thanks to my dear friends Stavriani and Angelis; they introduced me to this wonderful breakfast!



Eggs with kavourma (mutton braised in its own fat)


Fried eggs with pastirma






Mastic

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Much of Chios'  mastic gum industry went up in  smoke over the past week when a fire destroyed about the half of island's  mastic trees.  Environmental disaster and extensive economic damage were the results of the wildfire. 
"“Some 3,000 families live off the gum trees, which are the main source of income in the south of Chios, while many more supplement their incomes with mastic production,” Madalas- the managing director of Mediterra, a Chios Masticha Growers Association- told Kathimerini newspaper.
He also said that it takes an average of five to seven years before the Pistacia lentiscus begins producing the golden resin." (ekathimerini)
Since Chios produces between 20-25% of the world's mastic crop and its masticha has unique flavor,  the results of fire will affect not only Chios producers and Greek economy but the availability and price of mastic  too.  

For all of you out there interested in masticha there is a worth reading article,
 "The Geography of the Chios Mastic Trade from the 17th through to the 19th Century" by D. Ierapetritis.
"It aims firstly to present the botanical aspect of Chios Mastic, the mastic tree (P. lentiscus var chia), as well as the cultivation and harvesting methods of the produce. Secondly, by investigating the historical sources it aims to present the geography of the mastic trade in the East and West from the 17th through to the 19th century, while at the same time analyzing the monopoly trade system established by the Ottoman State. Thirdly, it analyzes the international demand for the Chios mastic during this same period in the international markets, focussing on the beneficial qualities attributed to it. Finally, it examines the validity of the information published in geographical and traveller’s journals during the period in question, evaluating the conclusions of the relevant modern scientific research. This article is based mainly on studying sources such as geographical and traveller’s manuscripts dated back from the 17th until the 19th century, which are kept in the “Korais” Central Public Historical Library, as well as other historical sources examining the period in question."







ΓΙΑ ΕΛΛΗΝΙΚΑ ΕΔΩ.

5500 live sheeps for Libya

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The Cretan sheep cooperative farms "Kritika mitata" recently exported 5.500 live sheeps and lambs to Libya. Googling "Live sheep for Northern African Countries" I found out that there are inquires for continuous supply of live sheep for Libya. This sounds like very good news for Cretan economy. 
Flocks of sheep and goats are nothing new for Crete. The raising of them occupies a central position among the economic activities of the island. Besides, the breeding of cattle and sheep was regarded by Diodorus as an invention of the Couretes, the Cretan daemons who "dwelt in the mountains, under the shade of thick trees, and in caves and other places that naturally afforded them a shelter and covering."  



Please, check out some  articles on Cretan sheeps and lambs in prehistoric, classical and hellenistic Crete. They are very interesting indeed.

The administration of Mycenaean sheep rearing (flocks, shepherds, “collectors”),  by Françoise Rougemont.

The diachronic analysis of pastoralism through comparative variables, by Lucia Nixon and Simon Price (from Annual of the British School at Athens 96: 395-424)

Problems of "Pastoralism" and "Transhumance" in Classical and Hellenistic Crete, by Angelos Chaniotis (from Orbis Terrarum 1, 1995, 39-89).

Ancient Greece, Cyprus and Wine

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  •  This 2000 b.C. ceramic jug came to light during archaeological digs in the necropolis of Pyrgos (a town on the northen coast of Cyprus)
 Its decoration shows what daily life was like in  Cyprus over 4000 years ago.
At the rear base of the two spouts there is a woman with her feet in a vessel that opens undeneath to allow some juice to flow into a small basin below.
Dr. Pavlos Flourentzos has identified it as one of the earliest extant visual represantations of grape- stomping and thus wine making.


  •  Two interesting studies:
Feasting and the consuming body in Bronze age Crete and Iron age Cyprus by Yannis Hamilakis and Susan Sherratt.   They discuss the importance of feasts and social rituals involving the consumption of food and drink to establishing and maintaining authority and power.  Wine consumption is discussed to the extent; "it can operate as a barometer for broader  patterns of consumption and of political and social developments, especially as part of feasting events."


Grape-pressings from northern Greece: the earliest wine in the Aegean? by S.M. Valamoti, M. Mangafa, Ch. Koukouli-Chrysanthaki and D. Malamidou. Houses burnt down at the Neolithic site of Dikili Tash in northern Greece preserved the remains of wild grapes and figs. The charred shapes showed that there was a pile of grape pips with skins – clear evidence for the extraction of juice. The authors argue that the juice was probably used to make wine – towards the end of the fifth millennium BC the earliest so far from the Aegean.



Autumn passion

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This old- fashioned grape must pudding (moustalevria)* is one of my favorites. It has such a flavor that makes you think of  exotic faraway places.






8 glasses clarified concetrated grape must
1 glass all-purpose flour
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh walnuts. 
3-4  fresh arbaroriza  leaves (rose geranium, Pelargonium graveolens)
sesame seeds
cinnamon powder

To clarify the grape must tie wood ash or ground limestone or bread in a small piece of  cloth and submerge it in the grape juice. 
Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
Set the pot aside and let it stand overnight. 
The next day pass the grape must through a fine sieve and pour the clarified  juice into a second pot.
Place the juice over medium heat, bring it to a boil; the more you reduce it the sweeter it becomes.
Taste for sweetness and boil for a few more mintutes if needed. Let it cool.
In a bowl dissolve  the flour in 1 1/2 glass of grape must. Mix it with the rest of juice, add arbaroriza and stirring constantly cook for about 40 minutes over low heat, until moustalevria is creamy and thick.
Remove from heat and add the walnuts. 
Pour in individual bowls or in large shallow platter.
Sprinkle with cinnamon and sesame seeds. 


*Moustalevria= moustos (must)+ alevri (flour)

Mixing the kykeon*

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One of the intriguing mysteries of ancient Greece is what is the nature of the nourishing, medicinal, magical and potentially dangerous drink that is known as kykeon.


Kykeon made for "A gastronomic journey back in time" 
(Saturday, the 6th of Ocotober I created this historical dinner for the Friends of Museum and Archaeological site of Delphi. The menu was inspired by tastes from homeric to modern times)
photo by Stella Drimiskianaki

In the eleventh rhapsody of Iliad the “fair-curled Hecamede prepared a mixture, she whom the old man had brought from Tenedos, when Achilles laid it waste, the daughter of magnanimous Arsinoüs, whom the Greeks selected for him, because he surpassed all in counsel. First she set forward for them a handsome, cyanus-footed, well-polished table; then upon it a brazen tray, and on it an onion, a relish  for the draught, as well as new honey, and beside it the fruit of sacred corn. Likewise a splendid cup near them, which the old man had brought from home, studded with golden nails. Its handles were four, and around each were two golden pigeons feeding, and under it were two bottoms. Another indeed would have removed it with difficulty from the table, being full; but aged Nestor raised it without difficulty. In it the woman, like unto the goddesses, had mixed for them Pramnian wine, and grated over it a goat's-milk cheese with a brazen rasp, and sprinkled white flour upon it: then bade them drink, as soon as she had prepared the potion.”
Kykeon in this case was used to nourish Nestor's tired friends  and the wounded Machaon, the son of Asclepius~ the god of healing.  (Iliad 11 ver. 635 – 641).
However, in the tenth book of the Odyssey, Circe the witch makes a kykeon spiced up with dangerous herbs and honey for Odysseus' companions. The influence of the drink transformed them into swines (Odyssey, 10 ver. 230-240).

At the end of the 7th century a recipe for kykeon without wine  appeared in the Homeric hymn to Demeter, where it provides the myth for the consumption of kykeon at the Eleusinian mysteries.
"She (Demeter) asked instead for barley and water to drink mixed with tender leaves of glechon. Metaneira made the potion and gave it to the goddess as she had asked; and great Deo received the potion as the precedent for the Mystery. (Homeric Hymn to Demeter, line 207 ff; in Wasson et al. 1998, 74) Glechon or blechon is the ancient Greek name for the pennyroyal (Mentha palegium).
A recipe for glechon kykeon is also found in the Diseases of Women II, in the chapter on the red flux:
"If (the flux) is pungent, give a kykeon: let there be a portion of the previous remedy, one of cheese, one of barley meal. Towards the evening, add some honey and give to drink." The previous remedy was made with moss from the olive tree, oak gall, rue, oregano, glechon, barley meal, ground mixture of pulses and goat's cheese.
Both recipes includ barley meal and glechon and both have to be taken while fasting
.
Barley groats (alfita), water and glechon were also the elements for the Eleusinian kykeon:
"On the fifth day of the festival (19 Boedromion) the celebrants would proceed in formal procession from Athens back to Eleusis, bearing the sacred hiera as well as a statue of the boy-god Iacchos. The latter deity, who personified the shouts of exultation that the participants would periodically emit, was identified at least as far back as the days of Sophokles with Dionysos (cf. Antigone, vv. 1115 ff.). This identificiation constitutes prima facie evidence of a very significant connection between the Dionysian and Eleusinian Mysteries.....
The initiates would then rest, purify themselves, and maintain either a partial or complete fast. It is believed that they would break their fast as evening approached by drinking a special beverage known as the "kykeon," consisting of meal and water mixed with fresh pennyroyal mint leaves (the same brew that Demeter drank, as recounted in the Hymn, lines 210-11). Obviously, the grain in the drink was a symbol of Persephone, the eternal goddess who dies, goes under the ground, and then comes back to life again.
Scholars disagree widely over the significance of the kykeon. Some have maintained that it must have had a sacramental character involving a communion with, or assimilation of, the spirit of the deity (Loisy 69; Jevons 365ff.). On the other hand, Mylonas doubts that it had any such "mystic" significance, although he acknowledges that the drinking of the kykeon was an "act of religious remembrance" involving "an observance of an act of the Goddess" (259f.). Even on this muted interpretation, the similarity to the Christian Eucharist is striking." The Eleusinian Mysteries"

Some scholars have proposed that the power of the Eleusinian Mysteries came from the use of a psychoactive drug in kykeon; because alfita, water and glechon were the elements publicly announced and not part of the secret. In the Road to Eleusis, R. Gordon Wasson, Albert Hoffman, and Carl A. P. Ruck suggested that the ergot species Claviceps purpurea- which contains LSA, a precursor to LSD-  was the probable psychoactive ingredient of the kykeon. Their theory remains controversial although the Mixing the Kykeon, from the pages of ELEUSIS: Journal of Psychoactive Plants and Compounds, New Series 4, 2000, describes in much detail the chemical process of mixing an alkali with ergot alkaloids to produce a much less toxic product: "Hypotheses advanced in The Road to Eleusis  concerning the possible composition and method of preparation of the kykeon are evaluated in light of published criticism. Objections to the Eleusis theory are countered, and based on a largely overlooked aspect of the chemical hydrolysis of ergot alkaloids, a new hypothesis is suggested that reinvigorates the  Eleusis debate. In part 2 of this essay, organic chemist Daniel M. Perrine provides further considerations that build upon the new idea, and a technical discussion of the practicality and realisability of the “Ergine Hypothesis” paves the way for new chemical and psychopharmacological research. In part 3, co-author of The Road to Eleusis Carl A. P. Ruck re-examines the Eleusis mythologies and ritual practises from which appear a much expanded understanding of the entheo-pharmacology of the ancient world".


Of course
you can always attempt to make a glass of homeric kykeon.  

The name itself is a clue; kykeon comes from the verb kykao, which means "stirring", "churning".
Another clue comes from Homer, who characterised the mixture as sitos, 'cereal food', always it is drunk though. The twelfth century archbishop of ThessalonikiEustathius  says that kykeon was something between food and drink; "perhaps, it was a sort of soup that you could sup"  (Eusth. 870. 65 ει και μεταξύ βρωτού και ποτού ο κυκεών είναι δοκεί, αλλά μάλλον οία ζωμός τις ροφητός ην")
These suggest that the resulting mixture was something  like a thick soup. 
Besides, the  late fourth or early fifth century grammarian and lexicographer Hesychius of Alexandria equates ptisane with kykeon. (Hesychius, Lexicon. Kykeon) This is not a surprise since  ptisane was made from hulled and roasted barley groats and kykeon was made from roasted and ground barley.
However, in spite of the fact that Homer suggests that the consistency of kykeon depends upon the continuation of stirring, if you'll add some roasted and ground barley meal to wine, grate goat's milk cheese over it and stir constantly you will definitely not have a thick drink.  Moreover, the resulting mixture is not very pleasant to modern palate.


Everytime I make kykeon for a historical dinner I mix a portion of wine with roasted barley meal, grated firm goat cheese and honey and simmer for a few minutes stirring constantly. Then I remove from heat, let cool, add some more wine to thin and stir again. The taste is pleasant and here is a third clue; Homer said that Hecamede used Pramnian wine.  Eparchides (3rd century b.C. apud Athenaios Deipnosophists, 1.30 b-e) says that Pramnian wine was produced in the island of Icaria, on the mount Pramnos. This wine was so dry and of such exceeding strenght that, according to Aristophanes,  Athenians didn't enjoy it.   Galen describes it as "black and austere wine" (οἶνός τις οὕτως ὀνομαζόμενος μέλας καὶ αὐστηρός) and this quality may have suggested the etymology proposed by  Eustathius and others, from παραμένειν, because of its ability to mature.
Therefore, choose  a dry, austere and crisp red wine. Barley meal,  goat cheese and thyme honey not only act as a stimulant to drinking but also sweeten and balance the taste of wine. 





*The title is borrowed from "Mixing the Kykeon",  ELEUSIS: Journal of Psychoactive Plants and Compounds, New Series 4, 2000.



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